La Darbia
📍Lake Orta
For our Neighbourhood Stays series our travel tastemakers uncover hotels and boltholes that ooze style whilst celebrating local. In this instalment Amira Hashish discovers a soulful retreat in the sublime Italian lake you have probably never heard of …
Neighbourhood: Tucked into the hillside above Lake Orta in northern Italy, La Darbia is surrounded by vineyard-lined slopes, postcard-perfect villages, and the distant peaks of the Monte Rosa massif. This lesser-known pocket of Piemonte is serene and steeped in natural beauty; a quiet counterpoint to the busier lakes further east.
With the charming town of Orta San Giulio just a few minutes away and easy access to wine routes and woodland trails, La Darbia offers an intimate base to explore a slower, more soulful side of the Italian lakes.
What to expect: La Darbia is more than a hotel - it is a collection of characterful residences, immersed in nature. Originally an agricultural hamlet, the property has been lovingly restored into an elegant hideaway where each apartment-style suite opens onto breathtaking views of the lake, gardens, or vineyard. It is a place that invites you to pause.
From the infinity pool that blends into the landscape to long, relaxed evenings under the pergola, everything here is designed around the rhythm of nature and the pleasures of Italian living.
Community and ambience: Warmth radiates through every part of the experience at La Darbia. The vision of owner brothers Gian Carlo and Matteo Primatesta, it is a testament to their design talent and family-run ethos. The team’s enthusiasm is infectious - genuine, generous, and proudly local. It is the kind of place where everyone remembers your name and shares insider tips with heartfelt passion.
There is a sense of community that is both grounding and uplifting, whether you are tucking into something delicious with fellow guests, chatting all things design with manager Fabrizio, or lingering over a spritz in the sun-drenched courtyard.
Design details: The architecture is a thoughtful balance of rustic tradition and refined minimalism. Terracotta roofs, timber shutters, and exposed stone walls nod to the site’s rural past, while interiors are contemporary and calming. Earthy tones, natural materials, and open-plan layouts draw the outside in.
Each residence has its own private outdoor space, and many include kitchens; ideal for those who want to live like a local, even if just for a weekend. The vineyard and kitchen garden weave through the grounds, giving the entire property a sense of harmony with its setting.
Which room should I book? The Lake Luxury Rooms are designed for those seeking both privacy and panoramic views. These elegant residences come in one- and two-bedroom layouts—ideal for couples, friends or families travelling together.
The interiors are light-filled and serene, with thoughtful touches such as linen curtains, timber detailing, and handcrafted ceramics. With fully equipped kitchens, lake-facing living spaces, and an effortless indoor-outdoor flow, they are made for long, lazy mornings enjoying the thoughtfully curated breakfast baskets.
On the menu: The culinary experience at La Darbia is one of its greatest strengths. Head Chef Matteo Monfrinotti brings creative flair to traditional Piemontese dishes, working with hyper-local ingredients (many from the estate’s own garden). Expect refined yet hearty plates — risottos, slow-cooked meats, handmade pastas — all paired with thoughtfully curated wines.
We were treated to dinner at the chef’s table one evening which was an absolute joy. The lobster spaghetti was the dish of dreams and what a privilege it was to watch the team in action. Chef Matteo’s passion is evident in every dish, and the service is relaxed yet considered. Aperitivo on the terrace as the sun dips behind the lake is also not to be missed.
Local experiences: Whether you want to roam or retreat, La Darbia makes it easy to connect with the region. Take a boat across to the mystical island of San Giulio, known for its peaceful monastery and storybook lanes. Explore the nearby Sacro Monte di Orta, a UNESCO-listed site with chapels set amongst chestnut woods. The hotel can also arrange private wine tastings, hiking routes, and culinary workshops. Design lovers will flock to the Alessi factory store, just a short drive away, for dazzling bargains.
Also ask about the Artisan Experience, an invitation to discover talented local craftspeople, many of whom played a key role in the design of La Darbia itself. Situated in an area of Piedmont long synonymous with design, visits to the workshops of skilled artisans offer a window into the community and its rich traditions. We particularly loved spending time with Agnes Ceramics, whose pottery is dotted throughout La Darbia.
Or simply stay put, wander the vineyard, enjoy a long lunch under the pergola, and soak in the stillness of this special place.
La Darbia is the kind of destination that stays with you long after you leave. It is not just about the views or the food (though both are exceptional); it is the warmth of the people and the feeling of being genuinely welcomed. A true gem in Italy’s lake district.
Book: From £257 per night in low season, ladarbia.com.